![]() ![]() I thought the same was self explanatory since the thing is called 'Choke' to begin with. ![]() Hence why the Engine Kill switch is of paramount importance when it comes to safety on motorcycle used to frequent off-road terrains. ![]() In such a scenario you cannot go by safely without an engine kill switch, because if I kill the motor using Choke then while descending it will turn back ON once the rear wheel turns, if I turn off ignition then the Horn stops working and I'm at the mercy of jeeps and other motorcycles climbing uphill. While descending sharp off-road declines, it's sometimes required that you kill the motor and use the clutch as rear brake while tip-toe'ing down. The reason for an engine kill switch is so that the engine stays dead until toggled. Informative thread, ashwinprakas! I too contemplated getting a kill switch on my 2015 Honda CB Shine 125, but then figured it's not much of a hassle turning the ignition switch off and on at signalsįor that I use the choke, as it's conveniently located on old school motorcycles(below horn switch), since it doubles to kill the engine as I recall my dad doing the same on his 2T motorcycle back in the day. Here's a video showing everything in action: Now take the two wires from the switch and connect it to both skinny wires(Black's)ĭue to lack of space, using a safety pin I popped out the pins, wrapped the switch wires on the naked pins and then re-inserted them into the connector, for a near factory-finish setup without any wires getting spliced. Source a quality switch, I went for the Right-Side Switch-Gear sourced from Royal Enfield that came on old generation Cast Iron Bullets. Now you have accessories line that can be controlled with the ignition key switch. Now to connect accessories, you should take (+) supply from 12V DC- OUT to the electricals and for (-) simply ground to chassis. Take the other lead and connect it to other wires and find which combination that has continuity when Key Position ON and continuity disrupts when toggled to Key Position OFF, that wire would be your 12V DC- OUT to the electricals. Once you have found which color wire supplies 12V DC current, you need to find its combination that takes 12V DC- OUT to the electricals.įor that set multimeter to continuity mode and on the ignition key connector side connect one lead to the same color wire you've found out for 12V DC- IN on harness side earlier. Set multimeter to DC Volts and on harness side of connector connect one multimeter lead and connect the other end to chassis, the 12v DC- IN supply would register 12.x Volts. Now using commonsense you could reverse the above procedure to find the 12v DC line as well. To find what is what you should get hold of a multimeter and set it to continuity mode, then disconnected the ignition key wiring and on the ignition key connector side, at Key Position OFF see which two wires have continuity, now toggle to Key Position ON the continuity should be disrupted, try a couple of times to be certain. No-Continuity between Ignition Ground Wires. In total there are 4 wires in the ignition key connector, the thick wires(White & Brown) when when given continuity pass 12V DC current from the battery to the electricals, the skinny wires(Black's) when given continuity would ground the ignition circuit hence killing spark.Ĭontinuity between Ignition Ground Wires. Finally with some help from fellow I was able to understand how the ignition switch on motorcycles are wired. ![]()
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